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Tag Archives: UNESCO World Heritage

Champaner-Pavagadh: Following the sun through a heritage landscape

02 Saturday Jan 2021

Posted by vinitagursahanisingh in Gujarat, India

≈ 24 Comments

Tags

archaeology, architecture, backwaters, baroda, boating, champaner, champaner heritage resort, champaner-pavagadh, composite culture, culture, Gujarat, heritage, hill temples, hindu, Hindu temples, history, incredibleindia, India, islamic, lonelyplanetindia, mumbai, muslim, natgeoindia, parsi, pavagadh, people watching, stone carvings, sun, udvada, UNESCO World Heritage, vadodara

Do people in Baroda understand how lucky they are? Maybe not all. But one person certainly does. Sameer Khera. My friend, Baroda-wala and an eternal traveler. Photographs from his frequent visits to Champaner-Pavagadh, filled me with travel-ache. So, when I was in Mumbai during Diwali holidays and started looking, Corona-eyed, at places within driving distance, C-P was an obvious choice. I called Sam to see if we could go together. But, as expected, the man had a travel plan on those very days. Then he did the next best thing and sent me a detailed itinerary of places I must see, along with the best times of the day to see them! Hurrah!

C-P is an 8 hour drive from Mumbai and we left very early. On the way, we took a short detour to Udvada, a place I had been meaning to go to since some time due to its significance as a Parsi spiritual center. By 3pm we reached Baroda and took the turn-off to C-P. These last 30 kms. were astonishing, as the plains opened up to the Pavagadh hill. Even from a distance, we could see the temples and old structures around its summit. And as we passed the city of Champaner, located at the base of the hill range, we felt we had entered a region of special historic significance. And it is. This is the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, a vast area dotted by ancient monuments making it an important UNESCO world heritage site.

Our hotel Champaner Heritage Resort was a bit beyond the city of Champaner, in Bhamaria village, by the backwaters of the Kada dam. From a small island here, where we watched the sun going down that day, dazzled by the golden water and the silver bracelets of our boatman.

And we watched the sun come up again the next morning. Near the top of the Pavagadh hill, at the Saat Kamaan or the Seven Arches.

The hillside is strewn with monuments from the time of the Muslim rule of Sultan Mehmud Begda and earlier Hindu rulers, notably the Khichi Chauhan Rajputs. At the very top is the revered temple of Kalimata, attracting hordes of worshippers from all over. We did not visit the temple as the cable cars ferrying people to the temple were quite crowded. We meandered around the ruins, just below the jump off point for the cable cars. And discovered that we could have actually walked up the hill along a sheltered walkway that no one seemed to use.

A little while later, down in Champaner city, we sought out a guide. The rest of the day we tramped through the wilderness and saw a bewildering array of mosques. The One-Minar mosque, Shaher ki Masjid, Nagina Masjid, Kewada Masjid, Kamani Masjid. It appears that Sultan Begda, who made Champaner the capital of Gujarat in the 15th century, spread his troops and families all across the area. Where they settled, they built a mosque. Once the city went into decline, these mosques were taken over by the forest. All the mosques are similar in architectural style – a masterful blend of Hindu and Islamic. While the domes and minarets make you completely certain you are entering a mosque, the Hindu motifs and carvings inside, throw you off totally. Our guide told us that Sultan Begda did not have access to any Islamic artisans and he basically had to rely on local ones. These artisans went wild making what they knew best. And the result is that the Champaner city is “the only remaining complete and unchanged Islamic pre-Mughal city”, as quoted by UNESCO.

With the sun following us, we went from one awe-inspiring monument to another, covering mosques, step-wells, and fortifications. We spent many delightful moments just watching trucks, trams, rickshaws, people crossing the gates of the walled city.

Finally, we saw the sun setting from the Vadatalav Lake in a majestic glow of light behind the Pavagadh hill. We could not get a very good photograph, so I am using Sam’s below from his earlier visit.

This ‘follow the sun’ itinerary was really a wonderful gift and guide from Sam. It gave us a compass and companion, even when he wasn’t around. We felt also the presence of many other people who had invested time and energy in preserving this unique place. Our guide Manoj Joshi’s father Ghanshyam Joshi, has passionately recorded the monuments, contributed to archaeology books and played an important role in lobbying for UNESCO status for the area. They can be contacted at 9879542611/02676245611. Rahul Gajjar whose name came up several times, has photographed and organized events to highlight the importance of the monuments here. And the Sarvaiyas, affable owners of Champaner Heritage Resort, who are restoring their property and making it possible for more people to stay a few days and take in its beauty.

As Manoj ji told us, the Pavagadh hill range has many more monuments to behold. But we had to leave the next morning. So, as the sun rose, we pottered around the mango groves and village ponds, leaving the boat people to their centuries-old rituals. We are, after all, only passers-by. But this treasure remains, a breath away, for the people here and I hope they forever take care of it.

Picture credits: Hardeep Singh.

Hidden gems: Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole

07 Sunday Jun 2020

Posted by vinitagursahanisingh in India, Karnataka

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Agasthya Lake, Aihole, architecture, Badami, Belgaum, Bhutanatha temple, bouldering, cave temples, Chalukya, Clarks Inn, fort, Goa, Hampi, Hindu temples, India, Jain temples, Karnataka, Kolhapur, Malikarjuna temple, Off the beaten path, Pattadakal, Pune, Satara, South India, temples, UNESCO World Heritage

Why the hell had I not come here earlier? That’s the thought that came to me when I saw the Agasthya Lake, shimmering in the evening sun and circled on three sides by burnt red hills. The rays illuminated the ancient Bhutanatha temple and covered everyone in a golden glow. At the banks of the lake, children played, men chatted and women washed utensils, in a ritual that must have repeated every sunset since the 7th century. And that day, just for a while, I was part of this age-old scene.

We had left Pune at dawn, and driven through Satara and Kolhapur to reach Badami by late noon. The evening was spent exploring the Bhutanatha and Malikarjuna group of temples clustered around the eastern and north-eastern sides of the lake. We spent the night at the Clarks Inn. I ate dinner at a nearby canteen, gorging down dried jowar rotis, dal and some incredibly spicy chutneys. But then I am an intrepid foodie. My husband took the safer option and ordered room service. The next day, Just before dawn, we went back to explore cave temples that are carved into the southern flank and Badami fort built on the north-western side of the lake.

The Badami temples, comprising Hindu and Jain temples, are stunning examples of rock-cut architecture, dating back to the 6th century.

The Badami Fort, also from the 6th century, was the residence of the Chalukyan rulers. Its entrance is through massive rock walls and the monuments are strewn all over the sandstone hill. Some of the monuments are accessible only through narrow crevices and others are a long climb to the top. Sitting on the high boulders, looking at the winking waters of the lake and the cool breeze on our faces, a feeling of deep contentment…

View from the southern Badami cave temples. To the west is the city edging in

We would have loved more time at the Fort but had to leave for the two architectural marvels close by – Pattadakal and Aihole.

Skyline at Pattadakal
Iconic Durga temple at Aihole

These two sites are barely 10 kms. apart and together with Badami form the cradle of Hindu temple architecture, built by the mighty Chalukyan dynasty. Aihole especially was like an open-air school for architects from all over to come and experiment. What they created has now become a veritable museum of architectural styles from North and South India and which, from 1400 years earlier, have inspired temple structures all across India.

Why do these magnificent gems get overlooked by tourists? Maybe it gets overshadowed by Hampi? Maybe it is off the beaten path? But this UNESCO World Heritage site is an absolute must do. So, to help you put this on your list, here are the distances from more visited places

  • Goa: 238 kms
  • Pune: 446 kms
  • Belgaum: 146 kms
  • Kolhapur: 227 kms
  • Hampi: 140 kms

Plateau of Flowers: Kaas

04 Monday May 2020

Posted by vinitagursahanisingh in India, Maharashtra

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

Flowers, Kaas Plateau, Maharashtra, Paradise, Pune, Sahyadri, UNESCO World Heritage, Wildflowers

A short drive from Pune in Maharashtra lies Paradise. For me, living in Mumbai, it was always so close and yet so far. Because Paradise shows itself only for a brief spell of time – a month in a year. Usually this is from the start of September to early October, after the monsoon has made its last retreat. But when exactly, is never sure. And then, you may hit the month right but the particular day that you get there might be blown over by wind or rain or a swarm of dark menacing clouds. So, only the Gods decide whether you see it or not. Its paradise after all!

After years of waiting for the right time, finally everything fell in place and I got lucky. I had a work trip planned in Pune in the first week of October and the next day was a national holiday. I rang up the local administration to ask if the timing was right. They said that in fact, the monsoon had retreated late so it was only in the last week of September that the plateau had opened up. I took the chance and booked my visit slot. And left Pune just before dawn. I reached Kaas Plateau by 730am.

And there, spread out in front of me were magical carpets of different hues.

Only a few people wandering about, in stunned awe, on carefully marked walking paths. The guide led me along these, telling me the names of the wildflowers, their pattern of blooming…“this one here blooms only at 12 noon so we call it the 12 o clock flower” and “this one here are few now but every 12 years, the plateau is covered in them”. I listened to the names. But mostly I just soaked in the colors, the smells and the glistening morning sounds.

The Kaas Plateau is a UNESCO World Heritage site, takes in only a stipulated number of visitors each day, and has temperamental weather, The wildflowers bloom only after the rains stop and that too for less a month. So here is some advice on how to plan for the visit. The first thing to do is to closely monitor this site https://www.kas.ind.in/. It is run by local committees and they give real time updates on days of opening. They also have super helpful people you can call and ask for more advice. If possible go on a weekday. On the weekend or national holiday, make sure you reach there as soon as the park opens. You will get a couple of glorious, quiet hours before the crowds come in. This place is very popular with locals who seize the chance when they can. Yes, everyone wants a piece of Paradise.

Long loop through the Balkans

02 Saturday May 2020

Posted by vinitagursahanisingh in Balkans, Europe

≈ 11 Comments

Tags

airbnb bosnia, archduke ferdinand, Balkans, Baščaršija, belgrade, blagaj, Bobis, bosnia, bosnia & herzegovina, bosniak, bosnian coffee, Buffet Fife, Buna, burek, catholics, Croatia, croats, crooked bridge, dervish, Diocletian Palace, Dubrovnik, Ferhadija Street, Game of Thrones, hamam museum, Luka, Marjan Hill, marko marulic, medieval town, mostar, multicultural, muslims, Neretva, orthodox christians, ottomans, pocitelj, Riva, sadrvan, sarajevo, sarajevo roses, serbia, Split, stari most, trams, Travelmates, tunnel museum, UNESCO World Heritage, World Cup 2018, World War 1, yellow bastion, yugoslavia, zdrava voda

This loop went through Split and Dubrovnik in Croatia, Mostar and Sarajevo in Bosnia, ending in Belgrade in Serbia. The absolute thrill was that it was with two of my dear friends Nisha and Aparna. Mad, curious, excitable and very very funny, these two and me, had the time of our lives. And here, all three of us, are co-writing this blog post to share some of the most delectable moments.

Croatia

We came together in Split (pun intended). Me arriving from a holiday with the family in Plitvice, Lake Bled and Austria. Nisha from India. And Aparna from the UK. We all trooped to our AirBnb and were welcomed by our host, Tessa’s father. He was obviously a very proud Croatian: he quickly told us the best places to eat in, the very best ice cream shop (‘I know this shop from my childhood!’) and uh, not to spend money on bottled water (“Split has the best water system and the water from the tap is 100% pure”) We followed his advice over the next few days, especially filling copious amounts of tap water in our water bottles.

Our first stop from the recommended list was a local favorite, Buffet Fife. We walked by the waterfront and arrived there with hunger and exhilaration in equal parts. We devoured the most delicious grilled trout and left absolutely satiated, in mind and body!

The next morning, armed with this map, we first sat ourselves – European like – in a coffee shop nearby, Bobis. And after boisterous discussions, decided our walking route.

Naturally we started at the Diocletian Palace, the number one attraction. This is an UNESCO World Heritage site, an enormous palace complex built by the Roman Emperor Diocletian at the turn of the 4th century. We then meandered through the narrow cobbled lanes, the quaint squares and came upon the impressive statue of one of the early humanists, Marko Marulic. At the bustling Peristyle Square, we slid through (as you must!) a narrow lane called “Let me pass please!” and stood at the steps of the beautiful Temple of Jupiter. I then headed to the bell tower of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius for the best 360 degree views of the city.

I totally recommend it but it is quite a climb to the top. My friends deserted me in this expedition and sat around posing with their newly bought, matching (and IMO quite ugly) hats.

We lunched at one of the many cafes at the sparkling waterfront, the Riva. Here, we also bought our tickets for the ferry to Dubrovnik the next day. We did not forget (nor should you!) to touch the toe of the huge statue of Grgur Ninski. It is supposed to fulfill your desires 🙂

Late afternoon, invigorated by the highly recommended Luka ice-cream, we headed towards the Marjan Hill. Its a short climb to wonderful sunset views but the most memorable scenes en-route are of little homes bursting with flowers, children laughing and ladies sitting and chatting around. In the midst of this bliss, we found this home where the lady made stuffed dolls for sale. We sat with her for a while, chatting and sipping some delicious wine that she had made.

But the sun was still to present its full magic. We came back to the Riva and this time walked all the way away to the left of the city. Here, with bustling families and boisterous laughter, we ate the most wonderful pizzas.

The next morning glistened and gleamed and off we went on the ferry. It took little stops at several stunning islands before we reached our destination by lunch time.

Dubrovnik had spectacular views and sparkling seas. Notwithstanding its Game of Thrones fame, one can see why this city has so much allure.

But it was by far the most touristy place in Croatia. We had to plan way in advance by checking Dubrovnik cruise ships schedule to make sure we are there on the day that had fewer ships coming. The Airbnb was expensive, the host wasn’t welcoming at all and the taxi drivers cheated us. I guess those are the woes of all places that have massive tourist draw. But, we just HAD to see it. And we were lucky that we saw locals at their boisterous best – Croatia had entered the World Cup 2018 semi-finals that day! So, that one super day was all we needed at Dubrovnik. If we were looking for a few more lazy days, nearby Korcula would have done nicely!

Bosnia & Herzegovina

Mili, our cab driver, was at the door step next morning to take us to Mostar. Long hair loosely tied into a ponytail, towering, brooding eyes, measured demeanor, he was the first indication of what lay in store for us in Bosnia. From snatches of conversation, we were drawn into his scarred past – his identity as a Bosnian Croat, the civil war, his home torn asunder as his wife and son left for a safer Denmark but he stayed back. His deep love for Mostar and how he had fought to protect it. As we listened to him in silence and drove through the rugged terrain we knew that Bosnia was different. And intensely captivating. Our first stop on the way was Pocitelj, a walled medieval town, its contours dominated by the local mosque, high fortifications, and the river Neretva flowing languidly by. We walked through fig groves and came upon this beautiful spot.

By the time we reached our next stop Blagaj Tekke, just on the outskirts of Mostar, it had started raining. The dark clouds, the swollen Buna river, deep ravages in the tall cliff-face, and the monastery splashed in white – the effect was hypnotic. This was an old old place, the home of revered Dervishes, a place of prayer and reflection. And we were entranced.

We reached Mostar by early evening, drenched but excited. We were welcomed by one of the best Airbnb hosts Tarik. Spotless home, the kettle whistling and many types of tea, including Assam! For the Indians in us, this was nothing short of heaven. As we nursed our warm cups, Tarik gave us a complete rundown on where we should go. Since it had rained in, we did not do any sightseeing but went over to this gorgeous restaurant Sadrvan.

Surrounded by hills and the Neretva gliding past, it is easy to think of Mostar as just a pretty town. But it’s more than that. Actually, this is what kept coming back to us. Bosnia is more than that. It’s beautiful yes, but what makes it special is its determination to hold on to its past and yet take brave steps into the future. Everywhere are remnants of a tortured past…

Everywhere are people attempting to make sure those atrocities never happen again. And nowhere is it more evident than this bridge, the Stari Most – built by the Ottomans, bombed during the Croat-Bosniak war and rebuilt – and now the place where people take an enthusiastic plunge into the waters below.

We walked around all day, circling the small town, stopping by at the Crooked Bridge and the Hamam Museum, eating burek and sipping coffee.

Burek (spinach/cheese/apple/meat) &
Bosnian coffee (bitter, finished off with a sweet called lokum)

We had intended to take the train from Mostar to Sarajevo, but there was only one train early in the morning, so we decided to drive. The journey was breathtaking and as we passed emerald green rivers and mountains, we wished we had taken the train. But, on the flip side, we got to eat in this restaurant that produces the most ultimate roast lamb Zdrava Voda

View from the restaurant

We reached our super Airbnb, had some tea, stepped out in the sunshine, and fell headlong in love with Sarajevo! This is a city for every emotion.

Horror. This was the place that triggered WWI with the assassination of Austrian Archduke Ferdinand in 1914. And this was the place that saw the end of the bloody wars that broke up Yugoslavia at the end of the century.

Left: Site of the assassination. Right: At the Tunnel Museum

Sadness. Sarajevo has had a wounded past – nearly 4 years of siege – and acres of graveyards to show for it. As we walked up to the Yellow Bastion for a stunning sunset and as we read the messages in the Tunnel Museum, we were overcome by a sense of loss and pathos

Joy. In taking trams that connect the entire city, in drinking from the fountains channeling pristine water from the nearby mountains, in watching locals playing open-air chess, gorging on strawberries, figs and peaches, rambling in the old bazaar Baščaršija and in posing in the streets!

Awe. At the contrasts – sometimes on a single street. On Ferhadija Street, there is a marker “Meeting of Cultures”. On one side is Austro-Hungarian architecture and on the other, traditional Ottoman outlines. In the old town is a seamless assembly of contrasts – Jewish synagogue, Old Orthodox church, Cathedral of Sacred Heart, Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque and many others. Sarajevo is an absolutely awe-inspiring multi cultural melting pot!


Hope. Bosnia, personified by Sarajevo, is a work-in-progress effort at living with multiple ethnic identities, religions and cultures. Here, different from other countries in the former Yugoslavia, live large populations of Muslims (50%), Orthodox Christians (40%) and Catholics (10%). This living together has been difficult but it is what makes Bosnia unique. It is also what draws three Indian girls, proud citizens of a crazily multicultural nation, to this country and its iconic capital Sarajevo. And also to the Sarajevo flowers – dotted across the city as symbols of pain and resilience.

Staring at the Sarajevo Roses – craters caused by mortar shells covered with red resin
After a fantastic (and free) walking tour with a brilliant guide from http://www.sarajevoinsider.com/

Armed with oregano, dried figs and Bosnian coffee, the three of us went our separate ways. I took the flight to India with a fabulous day long stopover in Belgrade taking in the sights – the Temple of Saint Sava, the Belgrade fortress and the Parliament House. It was at the Republic Square, the place which saw high tumult during the Balkan wars, that I felt I had turned a circle….but ready to start once more!

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